Tuesday-Friday: 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; 4-9 p.m.
Saturday: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Sunday: 4:30-8:30 p.m.
At first glance, everything about this modest storefront looks like your standard-issue House of Pizza. Even the boilerplate-sounding menu doesn’t give away the game. But what Mario’s modest trattoria lacks in bells and whistles, it makes up for in the consistency and execution of its Italian-style pizzas, which boast a sturdy, thin crust courtesy of the old-school stacked gas oven. The house-made sauce has a real piquancy with an umami-laden blend of tomatoes, oregano, fresh garlic and basil. The cheese blend has an added complexity and the quality meats are top shelf. Sometimes the basic stuff just tastes way better than anything complicated.
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